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Шеф пекарни ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Марина Каролиду: «Мы создаем продукт вне конкуренции»!

Основательница пекарни Молон Лаве Марина Каролиду поделилась с Cosmo историей своего знакомства и погружения в греческую культуру и кулинарию.

Cosmo: С чего началось ваше знакомство с Грецией и греческой кухней?

Марина Каролиду: Мое знакомство с Грецией началось с поездки в эту солнечную страну. И там я впервые попробовала вкуснейшего осьминога, узнала, что руккола бывает размером с ладонь, а оливковые деревья начинают плодоносить только в возрасте 30-ти лет.

С: Любили ли вы готовить до знакомства с мужем? И сложно ли было перестроиться с русской на греческую кухню?

Интервью

Алиса Вокс: правда об уходе из «Ленинграда» и отношениях с Сергеем Шнуровым

Интервью

Холостяк Егор Крид: «Большинство артистов — одинокие люди»

М.К.: Да, я всегда любила готовить. Говорят, все люди делятся на 2 типа: кто любит вкусно готовить и кто любит вкусно поесть. Вот я, видимо, отношусь к первому типу. Я никогда не зацикливалась на чем-то одном, и никогда не готовила исключительно русскую кухню. Если я открываю для себя какое-то новое интересное блюдо, у меня сразу появляется желание приготовить его самостоятельно, иногда даже усовершенствовать рецепт и добавить в него свои изменения. Наверное, поэтому мне это дается легко!

С: Как появилась мысль открыть пекарню, да еще и греческую?

М.К.: Выпекание хлеба испокон веков считалось благородным делом. В царские времена даже существовал указ о том, чтобы не облагать этот вид бизнеса налогом. Ни одно поколение фамилии Каролидис занималось выпеканием хлеба, поэтому мысль о своей пекарне всегда имела место среди наших планов.

Шеф пекарни ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Марина Каролиду: «Мы создаем продукт вне конкуренции»!

С: Не шло ли это вразрез с вашим русским менталитетом?

М.К.: Нисколько, я с большим удовольствием приготовлю спанакопиту, нежели ватрушки.

С: В России рецепты передаются из поколения в поколение. Кто учил вас азам греческого кондитерского мастерства?

М.К.: В Греции одно из важных мест при передаче ремесла занимает преемственность. Из поколения в поколение, от деда к отцу, от отца к сыну передаются секреты профессии. Будь то греческая таверна, небольшой магазин или автозаправочная станция, все члены большой греческой семьи будут работать вместе, начиная от внуков-школьников, заканчивая бабушками, дедушками, у каждого будут свои обязанности. Таким образом, еще с детства греки обучаются всем азам их будущей профессии. Так же случилось и у меня: несколько мастер-классов от Лешиной бабушки, записи старых семейных рецептов его мамы и тети положили начало нашей греческой пекарни.

С: В России хлеб — всему голова, с выпечкой то же самое: много теста, разнообразие начинок. Как обстоят дела с греческой выпечкой? В чем принципиальное отличие и схожесть?

М.К.: Большая часть греческой выпечки готовится из теста «фило», ему придают различные формы, добавляют интересные начинки, как сладкие, так и не сладкие. Это тесто является постным, поэтому блюда из теста «фило» пользуются спросом круглый год по всей Греции. В России же преобладает выпечка из сдобного и дрожжевого теста. Есть у греков традиционный пасхальный пирог «Цуреки», он совсем не похож на русский кулич, хотя мне он по вкусу напоминает калорийную булочку из советского детства.

С: В России хлеб подают ко всему, даже к макаронам или пельменям. В Греции также? Хлеб тоже занимает главное место на столе?

М.К.: Даже в самой простой греческой таверне сначала подают хлеб. Заказывали вы его или нет, хлеб обязательно принесут. Он может быть поджарен на гриле, посыпан орегано или приправлен оливковым маслом. Не попробовав настоящий греческий хлеб, вы не будете иметь правильного представления о греческой кухне, ведь многие блюда едят исключительно с хлебом.

С: У нас в России хлеб «простой». А как бы вы охарактеризовали греческий хлеб?

М.К.: В России я всегда ела хлеб с чем-то еще — с маслом, с супом, с кашей и т. д., сам по себе он действительно простой и как-то не съедается. В Греции же я могу есть хлеб просто так, потому что он нереально вкусный и ароматный. А если я сижу на диете, то я его просто нюхаю!

Шеф пекарни ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Марина Каролиду: «Мы создаем продукт вне конкуренции»!

С: Сложно ли работать с локальным продуктом и делать аутентичный греческий продукт в российских реалиях?

М.К.: Есть продукты, которые можно брать у местных производителей, а есть незаменимый греческий эксклюзив, без которого блюдо просто не получится. Поэтому много что приходится возить из Греции. Возьмем ту же простую соль, греческая соль более соленая на вкус, нежели российская, и это надо учесть, если вы решили порадовать мужа ужином по греческой кулинарной книге. А что уж говорить о молочных продуктах и специях, которые заменить просто невозможно. Разумеется, это доставляет определенные трудности в работе, но и в то же время позволяет нам создавать качественный оригинальный продукт вне конкуренции, и наши постоянные клиенты это ценят.

С: В силу своей занятости вы не находитесь в пекарне каждый день. Как вам удается угадывать, чего хочет ваш гость?

М.К.: Да, я часто бываю занята с детьми, но это не мешает мне проводить регулярные дегустации и лично контролировать качество произведенной продукции. Плюс мой муж Алексей всегда в ресторане.

Шеф пекарни ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Марина Каролиду: «Мы создаем продукт вне конкуренции»!

С: Вы — супер-мама 4-х детей, при том интернациональных! Какую выпечку предпочитают они?

М.К.: Любую выпечку в моем исполнении дети сметают за считанные секунды, поэтому отследить, что было съедено первым — медовик или бугаца — я даже не успеваю!

Шеф пекарни ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Марина Каролиду: «Мы создаем продукт вне конкуренции»!

С: Что вы едите дома? Какие блюда готовите? Готовите ли блины на Масленицу и кулич на Пасху? Или только Цуреки и то, что едят в Греции на их Масленицу?

М.К.: Дома мы едим здоровую правильную еду. У меня есть двухнедельное сбалансированное меню, составленное из блюд русской и греческой кухни. На пасху я пеку куличи и цуреки, вместе с детьми мы красим яйца и относим их в церковь для освящения. Масленицы у греков нет, в Греции это называется мясная неделя, которая плавно перетекает в карнавал… Все жарят мясо прямо на улице перед своими домами, магазинами и даже на автозаправочных станциях! Основным днем считается цикнопемпти (переводится как мясной четверг), в Молон Лаве этот праздник традиционно празднуют.

С: Какая еда превалирует у вас дома?

М.К.: Многие блюда греческой кухни построены по принципу здорового питания, минимум сложных соусов, многое запекается в духовке (а значит сохраняет свои полезные свойства), правильное сочетание гарниров и основных блюд, большое обилие свежей зелени и овощей, разнообразие морепродуктов и рыбы — все это входит в наш постоянный рацион.

Источник: cosmo.ru

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